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Italians and Their Cheese

Where ever you go in Italy there is a cheese that imitates the personality of the area. Go up and down the Boot or to the islands that surround the Boot, and each region, province, community has its own cheese. There are cheeses that are hard, soft, crumbly, runny. Italian cheeses are used in every course of a meal. The cheese is eaten as a condiment or as main part of a course. It may be in small chunks to eat as is with a glass of wine, or grated over a dish, or sliced to cover a dish, or as part of a stuffing, the list goes on and on. They say that there are 450 different Italian cheeses; a conservative figure. Keep on mind that there are different ways to consume each cheese, and the taste of the cheese is often altered a little to enhance its pleasures.

What comes to mind now is where, when, how and by whom did this great tasting nutrient become part of our diet. Well, the Italians had absolutely nothing to do with the invention or discovery of cheese. It all happened somewhere in the middle east about 8000 years ago, and there are many legends as to how and by whom. We have two favorite legends.

One tells us of a traveling merchant who would take an animal sack filled with milk with him. One evening he took cover in a cave. when he left in the morning, he left the sack of milk in the cave. On his return trip, he took cover in the same cave, and decided to nourish himself with the milk he left in the cave. However the milk was a solid mass. After studying the mass, observing its aromas and tasting it, he enjoyed a meal of cheese.

Another story is that of the Arabian sheep man, horseman. He would herd the sheep on horseback with a hide sack full of milk. The movement of the horse and with rennin as a natural part of the sack, the milk separated. What the herdsman had was whey and a liquid. He drank the liquid and pressed the whey into a mass and ate it. If he let the mass of whey stay undisturbed for a while, it changed in consistency, color and taste. What he made was cheese.

The true discovery or invention of cheese may never be Known. However, it was the Roman Empire that sophisticated the making and production of cheese. The Roman cheese making techniques spread though out its empire, and each community altered and improved the cheese making to suit their community.

The variety of Italian cheeses is dependent on many factors. The animal that produces the milk creates the uniqueness of the milk. In Italy the sheep, the goat, the cow and the water buffalo all provide the dairies with excellent milk, and depending on the land and the feed the milk may differ a bit for each animal and the cheese may be different from one area to ,another. Therefore, Pecorino from Sicily is different from Tuscan Pecorino. However, for the most part the north depends on the cow and the south utilizes the sheep and the goat; except for Campania which depends on the water buffalo for its mozzarella. At times Italians take what nature provides and mix in their favorite flavors to create a specific taste and special cheese. Between nature and Italian creativity we have the 450 plus cheeses. It is impractical for us to discuss all the cheeses of Italy; however, there are cheeses that are most prominent for the Italian table and Italian cookery. Below are a few cheeses we are going to focus on, and we are just beginning to introduce the cheeses of Italy.

 

MOZZARELLA

Mozzarella in most parts of the world is made from cows’ milk. In its place of origin, Campania Italy, mozzarella is made from the water buffalos’ milk. The cows’ mozzarella is excellent; however, without a doubt, the water buffalo’s mozzarella is superior, “it’s the best.” The milk is heated to separate the whey and the curd. The whey is set aside. To make mozzarella, the curd is placed in warm water, kneaded and stretched until it is smooth and shinny. Then pieces are pulled from the mass and rolled into balls. The cheese is eaten sliced drizzled with olive oil, cooked in food or melted on top of food. What is pizza without mozzarella?

 

RICOTTA

Ricotta is “re-cooked,” “Twice cooked,” a by product of other cheeses. Remember the whey set aside when making mozzarella? That whey or the whey from other cheeses is reheated and strained, and the mass remaining in the strainer is ricotta. Ricotta is generally used in cooking, and it is found in many Italian recipes. However, you can eat it right from the strainer, if you wish just sprinkle a little salt and pepper on the cheese. Nonna would take a little ricotta, place it on a dish and surround it with fruit for a simple meal. Beth d’Boop sprinkles sugar on it, and Ray “the Sicilian” covers ricotta with marmalade.

 

 

PECORINO

Pecorino, Pecorino is a ewe’s milk cheese or a sheep milk cheese; today it is generally made with sheep’s milk. It is produced in about 85% of Italy’s provinces, and Pecorino is a very popular cheese. It is primarily produced in Tuscany and south of Tuscany and the Italian Mediterranean Islands. In some areas the cheese is flavored with herbs and/or spices, wine. It may even be wrapped in straw to age--whatever. To discuss all the pecorino cheeses of Italy here and now is impractical. To discuss the most popular and most consumed is practical. These cheeses are Pecorino Romano, Pecorino Tuscano, Pecorino Siciliano, and Pecorino Fiore Sardo.

Pecorino Romano may the most acknowledged Pecorino. It is a salty full flavored, hearty cheese. Pecorino Romano’s dense flavors and saltiness makes it best grated over food, and it is not considered a table cheese. It brings a Caesar salad to new heights, try it.

Pecorino Tuscano is best from the Sienna country sides. It is a full bodied, nutty, fruity cheese with a hint of olive. Pecorino Toscano is an ideal table cheese, particularly with fruit and Chianti. It is also delightful when shaved on a hearty pasta dish. This cheese is fabulous with peaches soaked in a glass of Chianti.

Pecorino Siciliano is a robust, multi-flavored cheese that may be herby and/or spicy. An excellent table cheese with a hearty meal. Often enjoyed as part of an antipasto. Seldom used to grate on food; however, it’s full-bodied flavors are wonderful grated over linguini with an olive oil, garlic and anchovy sauce.

Fiore Sardo is a fabulous Pecorino from Sardinia. This cheese is Sardinian Gold that is a semi hard cheese which is a great table cheese or an excellent grating cheese. It is an ideal cheese to serve at a cocktail hour or wine party. To make a fantastic pesto, mix this cheese into it.

 

PARMIGIANO - REGGIANO

Without a doubt the King of Cheeses is Parmigiano - Reggiano. Never confuse the “real thing” with parmesan cheese, a totally different grating cheese. Parmigiano-Reggiano’s nomenclature was determined after much debating between Parma and Reggio Emilia. For centuries the cheese was known as Parmigiano. However there was as much Parmigiano produced in Reggio as in Parma. The cheese has been around since the thirteenth century, and where it  was made first was always debated. To determine its proper name, for business, they settled on the term Parmigiano - Reggiano. The argument between the two communities continues to this day?

The Parmigiano - Reggiano Consortium has many stringent, controlling procedures for the production of the cheese, and along with the Italian Government a restricted area is designated for the production of this cheese. The area of production is no larger that Metro- New York or Metro-London or Metro-Tokyo.

Parmigiano-Reggiano is a raw uncooked cheese that it is made with a mixture of skim milk and whole milk, and made into 75 to 85 lb. wheels and then aged. The Parmigiano - Reggiano Consortium and the individual dairies scrutinize the aging process to produce a bacteria free and the finest tasting product.

As Parmigiano - Reggiano ages the flavors intensify and the cheese becomes crumbly. Inside the wheel of cheese, little white dots are formed as the cheese becomes a little firm. Scientifically, the fat turns into amino acids. 

After one year of aging, Parmigiano - Reggiano is in its first stage of good eating, and at this phase is excellent for grating over food. After 2 years it is a great table cheese as well as a grating cheese. After 30 to 36 months it is a magnificent tasting table cheese. At the Fancy Food Show in New York, Chef Richie coined a phrase “Thirty Thirty" for 30 month old Parmigiano enhanced with droplets of 30 year old traditional Balsamico. (Particularly "Balsamico di Reggio Emilia")